fuel manager vs ecu flash for motorcycle

#Fuel manager vs ecu flash for motorcycle mods#

B mode is more forgiving and I feel it allows easier modulation of small throttle inputs. On rough roads it is hard to modulate throttle smoothly. A good option in the rain and gravel perhaps. Response is softer than A and B modes but is usable. I felt that Std was way too lazy and B was a bit twitchy. I used to be able to open it up in 6th on the highway and it would pull. The bike seems to struggle if throttle is opened under 5000rpm. Without a dyno I can't be sure of what the actual output is. It has been a week since I rode this bike and I know smooth power can mask an increase. Power comes on smooth but is not eye popping. Engine temps remain the same as before when moving. Average MPG is down to 31-32 from 34-35. I'm usually not hard on the throttle and not a wheelie popper either. Cruising mileage remains around 36-39mpg on flat ground at 65-75mph I'm really interested to hear if others' experiences are similar. I have removed the O2 sensors, the EXUP eliminator plug, and the remaining AIS hardware and have no codes. I ran about 300mi today with the 2WDW flash. For many, the reflash alone will suffice if it's 'close enough' but I encourage y'all to get a pull in on the dyno to see how close you get to a proper AFR or power figure. Nels is a good guy who does a great flash, but short of a fuel controller with auto tune (bazazz, power commander, rapid bike) or having *your* bike tuned on the dyno, a mail-in tune built off the same model bike across the country will only get your fueling so close since every bike is different. It'll account for elevation, temp, exhaust, airbox mod, etc.ĭon't take my post as anything negative towards the 2WDW flash.

#Fuel manager vs ecu flash for motorcycle mods#

My honest recommendation for folks looking to reflash- get 2WDW to unlock all the goodies like lower fan temp initiation and removing factory limitations, but keep the stock fuel map and even O2 sensors, and then run a Rapid Bike, which will use the stock O2 sensors and autotune your bike's AFR to what you want (for example 13.2) regardless of what mods you have. I plan to be on the dyno again in a couple weeks to see the difference in power and AFR. I used to get 80-90 miles to the tank, but after correcting the fuel I'm at 110 miles before hitting reserve. I can honestly say that the bike runs even better not running so rich, the top end pulls all the way to the limiter stronger than before.

The Rapid Bike system has AFR auto tune and to get to a true 13.2 AFR it's removed as much as 17% of fuel in some parts of the rev range. I ended up purchasing a Rapid Bike fuel management system as well as the Can-Bus My Tuning unit (wide ratio O2 since 2WDW flash disabled the stock O2 sensors). The argument can be made that dyno hp numbers can differ dyno to dyno but the AFR does not lie. I'm about 5hp below advertised and extremely rich.